Quince Dessert (Ayva Tatlısı)

It’s quince season, and I love that they’re everywhere in Northern California. Quince is almost unknown in the United States, yet for many of us from Europe or the Middle East it is an essential part of fall. The fruit itself is an apple-pear cousin with very little charm on paper. It is firm, extremely firm, and so tart that you cannot bite into it without a knife, yet it carries a quiet, floral sweetness. I prefer it raw, but it truly shines in this classic dessert.

Quince dessert is a traditional Turkish sweet prepared in a simple sugar syrup. In Turkey you see it in nearly every restaurant and patisserie throughout the fall and winter. Those versions are often a vivid red, thanks to food coloring, though they will insist it is natural. This recipe comes remarkably close to that deep red hue with no coloring at all.

Although the ingredients and technique are simple, it took me more than half a decade to share this recipe. It is surprisingly difficult to perfect. You want that deep red color without turning to food coloring, and you want the flesh to stay firm after the long, slow cooking needed to achieve it, yet not slip into mush.

Here it is:

for 6 people

3 quinces, pick ones that are yellow with minimal green spots., halved and cored
2 1/4 - 2 1/2 cups sugar (~1/2 - 3/4 cups sugar per quince, depending how sweet you want it) and yes, that's a lot of sugar but this is a syrup based dessert so...moving on
one red apple peel, any kind
Juice of one lemon
1 1/2 cup water (1/2 cup per quince)
4-5 whole cloves

-Fill a bowl with enough water to submerge the quinces once halved. Add the lemon juice.
-Peel and core the quinces, reserving the peels and seeds for coloring. Place the halved quinces in the lemon water to keep them from browning.
-Once all are prepared, lift the halves from the lemon water and set them in a pot, cut side up. Add one and a half cups of water, the quince and apple peels, and the quince seeds. These will help the fruit take on a deep red hue. Add the cloves as well. You may bundle the peels, seeds, and cloves in a large tea strainer, mesh bag, or a square of cheesecloth.
-Bring to a boil over medium to high heat and cook for 10-15 minutes.
-Add the sugar in the cores and continue cooking on low heat for two hours. After an hour and a half, turn the quince halves over so the cut sides face down, and let them cook for the remaining hour.
-Transfer the quinces to a serving plate, cut side up. Discard the peels, seeds, and cloves with a slotted spoon. Spoon the syrup over the quinces and let them cool.
-Serve with kaymak, qaymak, clotted cream, or, if none are available, mascarpone or whipped cream. Top with chopped walnuts or pistachios.

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Bean Salad (Piyaz)

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Piyaz comes from the Persian word for onion, but in Turkish cuisine, it has taken on a life of its own. Today, it refers either to a bean salad made with onions, parsley, olive oil and vinegar, spiced with red pepper flakes, and adorned with tomatoes, parsley, sumac, and slices of hard-boiled egg. Regional variations abound: some add green onions, while in Antalya, tahini gives piyaz its signature twist. 

In my hometown of Tekirdağ, one of Turkiye's two meatball capitals, piyaz is inseparable from kofte,  meatballs. One simply cannot be served without the other. But hınestly, piyaz goes with everything: grilled meat, warm bread, rice. One of  my favorite lunches is a bowl of cold rice and piyaz. 

Ingredients

• 2 cups cannellini beans, soaked overnight and cooked until soft OR 1 can of cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
• 1 small red onion, thinly sliced in half moons, kneaded with 1tsp of salt, then rinsed and drained
• 1 tomato, diced (in Turkey tomatoes are always peeled before being added to salads)
• 1 green pepper, thinly sliced (shishito peppers make a great substitute for Turkish green chilies)
• 1/3 cup parsley, finely chopped
• 1-2 tsp sumac
• 1 tsp hot pepper flakes (optional)
• a few black olives, pitted for garnish

optional but traditional

• 1 hard-boiled egg, chopped (I personally don't understand the appeal of rock-hard, bland eggs, especially cold ones. So I skip this part. But if your like them, go for it) 

for the dressing

• 1/4 cup (or a bit more) good olive oil
• 2-3 tbsp apple or white wine vinegar
• salt, to taste

instructions
-Arrange the beans on a flat oval or rectangle serving plate (not too deep.)
-Layer the kneaded and rinsed onions on top.
-Scatter the diced tomatoes and sliced green peppers. if using eggs, add them now.
-Sprinkle with sumac and hot pepper flakes.
-Top with chopped parsley and a few black olives for decoration.
-In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, vinegar and salt. Tast it, the dressing should be distincly tangy. Piyaz should be a bit sour. Vinegar should definitely come through!

-Pour the dressing evenly over the salad. 

-Mix well right at the table before eating, and dig in, preferably with a crusty piece of bread!

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Turkish-Style Romano Beans in Olive Oil (Zeytinyağlı Taze Fasulye)

Now that summer's in full swing, the farmers' markets are bursting with fresh Romano beans--the broad, flat Italian kind. They're almost identical to Turkish çalı fasülye, the star of many summer lunches and dinners back home. You'll find them served cold as a meze, or as a light main dish alongside rice. 

The trick is to cook them as soon as you bring them home. If you must wait, they'll keep in the fridge for up to a week. After that, they start turning woody and lose their sweet green flavor, which is no good for this kind of dish. 

No Romano beans? No problem. French beans (haricots verts) will work just fine: see this recipe. 

• 1 lb fresh Romano beans, washed and trimmed (snap off the ends and strip any stringy sides), then sliced lengthwise and cut into 2-3 inch (about 5 cm) pieces. 
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped
• 2-3 cloves of garlic, sliced or chopped
• 2 big or 4 medium fresh tomatoes, finely diced, grated, or blended--or just blend a can of diced tomatoes for a smoother shortcut
• 1/2 tsp ground cumin
• 1/3 cup olive oil, plus 2 tbsp more for a final drizzle
• ~1 cup hot water
• salt, to taste

Cooking:

-Heat the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed pot (or pressure cooker if you're in a hurry). Add the chopped onion and sauté over medium heat until soft and translucent, about 7 minutes. No browning!

-Stir in the garlic and cook for just a minute, until it smells amazing. Again, don't let it brown or burn.

-Add the green beans and cumin. Stir everything together and cook for 4-6 minutes, until the beans brighten and lose that raw green look.

-Add the grated/blended tomatoes, stir and cook for 3-5 minutes.

-Pour in enough hot water to just barely cover the beans, no bean soup here. Add salt to taste. 

-Cover and simmer gently on low to low medium heat for 25-30 minutes, until the beans are soft and silky. 

-If using a pressure cooker: Lock the lid and cook for 12-14 minutes after it reaches pressure.

Whatever pot you use, let the beans cool in it, don't rush them into another container while they're hot. These Turkish olive oil dishes are better as they sit and settle.

Serve at room temperature, drizzled with a little extra olive oil. 

This dish is great with buttery rice, a thick dollop of yogurt, or just a nice piece of crusty bread. In my family, it's rice and yogurt every time. 

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Izmir Style Meatballs in Tomato Sauce (İzmir Köfte)

There are so many meatball dishes in Turkish cuisine that we can easily make a multi-volume cookbook out of them. Among all the meatball recipes, Izmir koftesi, i.e. Izmir meatball, a specialty of Aegean city of Izmir, holds a special place in my heart. This dish of meatballs cooked with potatoes and peppers in tomato sauce is one of my all time beloved comfort foods. Since nowadays, we need comfort more than any other time I've been making Izmir meatballs almost weekly. Izmir kofte is usually a summer dish when tomatoes are in abundance served traditionally with rice and yogurt on the side, and accompanied by an icy glass of rakı, obviously. 

For the meatball

1/2 lb ground meat

2 slices of stale bread soaked in water and squeezed tight or 1/2 cup bread crumbs

1/2 tsp cumin

1 tsp black pepper

1/2 cup minced or finely chopped onion

1-2 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 cup flat leaf parsley, finely chopped

1 egg (Traditionally there’s always an egg in the meatballs both to keep the meatballs together and moist when baked; however, I don't like egg smell in meatballs and prefer not to use any)

Salt

~10 peppers. (In Turkey green sweet chilies are staples in this dish.) If you like spicy peppers, you can use any kind of pepper: jalapeno, wax, banana, Anaheim, or poblano. I like using Shishito and sweet Italian peppers for this recipe. Seeded.

2 medium size potatoes, peeled and cut in wedges

3 tbsp olive oil

3-4 medium size tomatoes, grated or chopped in food processor

1 tbsp tomato paste (optional)  

-Mix all the ingredients for the meatballs. Knead well for 5-7 minutes. Wet your hands and form 3-4 inches long oval-ish finger shaped meatballs round in the middle and thinner at the ends. 

-Heat a pan. Add 3 tbsp olive oil. Add meatballs and cook until they change color. We're not trying to cook them, just sealing them. 

-Take the meatballs aside but keep the oil in the pan. (Some people fry the potatoes as well and it is delicious, but much more greasy. So I choose not to fry the potatoes)

-Place meatballs in a sun pattern in a wide bottom oven proof dish or a cast iron pot with 1/2-1 inch intervals. If you're using a square or rectangle dish, you can line them up. 

-Add tomato paste to the frying pan and cook for 2 minutes, if you're using any. Add grated tomatoes or canned diced tomatoes or tomato sauce as well. Salt to your taste. Cook tomatoes until the juice is gone. Add 1 and half cup boiling water. Bring to a boil and turn off. 

-Place potatoes in between meatballs and put peppers on top, all still in sun shape. 

-Pour tomato sauce on top of meatballs and vegetables. The sauce should barely cover the meatballs and vegetables. If it doesn't, add a little bit more boiling water.  

-Bake in the middle rack of the oven at 380 F for 40-45 minutes, enough time for potatoes to cook.

-Serve with rice or crusty bread and yogurt. 

Bon appétit! 

  

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Greens and Grains (Yeşil Yapraklılar ve Tahıllar)

 

We're transforming a Turkish classic: In Turkey, a traditional winter favorite is spinach cooked with onions, peppers, or tomato paste, and served with rice alongside a dollop of creamy yogurt. However, since I moved to the United States, I've taken this beloved dish and given it a twist by incorporating a variety of greens and grains. I now experiment with spinach, chard, beet greens (of course I keep my beet greens), kale, and even collard greens, pairing them with bulgur, quinoa, wheat berries, buckwheat, and more. The result? A delightful medley of flavors and textures that can be enjoyed for lunch or dinner, and it is vegan. 
 
Sometimes, I venture to the local farmers' market to pick the freshest greens available, but on other occasions, the convenience of a 1.5 lb bag of power greens or baby spinach from Costco comes to the rescue, allowing me to whip up a delicious meal in just 30 minutes. The possibilities are endless—select your preferred combination of greens and grains and give it a try. Whether you opt for a plain or garlicky yogurt accompaniment, you're in for a green treat. 

(For the dish in the picture I used Costco power greens and coarse bulgur.)
1-1.5 lb greens of your choice
1/4 cup of grain of your choice
1 biggish onion, finely chopped
3 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
4 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp tomato or hot pepper paste
salt/pepper/red pepper flakes
1/2 cup hot water
optional
1/4 to 1/3 cup chopped fresh pepper (I love using sweet Italian red peppers but just like anything else, you can choose yours) 
And yogurt for serving

-Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the chopped onion and sauté for 6-7 minutes until they become translucent and tender, but not browned.
-If you're using bell peppers, add them to the pot along with the minced garlic. Continue cooking for another 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.
-Stir in the tomato or pepper paste and cook for an additional 1 minute to enhance the flavors.
-Begin adding the greens in small batches, allowing each batch to wilt before adding more. Stir continuously for about 10 minutes until the greens darken in color and become tender.
-Add your chosen grain to the pot and cook, stirring, for 1-2 minutes. (Avoid using brown rice due to its longer cooking time; if you must, use pre-cooked brown rice.)
-Pour in the hot water and season with salt and black pepper to your taste. If you like a bit of heat, don't hesitate to sprinkle in some red pepper flakes.
-Reduce the heat to low, cover the pot, and let the mixture simmer for approximately 20-25 minutes, or until the grain is cooked and has absorbed most of the liquid.
-Serve your delicious greens and grains dish with a side of yogurt. While I personally love mixing the cooked greens with yogurt, some enjoy it plain. 
 

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Crispy Okra (Çıtır Bamya Mezesi)

 

Years and years ago when we moved to the south for a couple of years, I decided to give fried okra a chance,  despite it being my least favorite vegetable. To my surprise it turned out to be a rather enlightening moment. I discovered when prepared this way okra becomes quite palatable and even makes for an excellent meze. Through some experimentation, I found that crispy okra, especially when served on garlicy yogurt, is the best. 

Nothing is set in stone here. Feel free to adjust any of the ingredients to your liking or based on your needs. 

~1/2 lb or less fresh okra pods, sliced

1-2 tbsp olive oil

~3 tbsp cornmeal

1 cup yogurt

1 clove of garlic, minced

optional: 1 tbsp fresh dill, finely chopped

1 tbsp olive oil + 1 tsp paprika or crushed hot pepper flakes

-Coat the sliced okras with olive oil in a bowl. Once they're coated, add cornmeal and coat them with cornmeal as well.

-Arrange the sliced okras in a single layer on a parchment lined baking tray and bake at 430F preheated oven for ~20 minutes or until crispy. 

-Mix one cup of yogurt with one clove of minced garlic and a dash of salt. Cover the bottom of a plate with yogurt. Top it with crispy okras. 

-In a small frying pan, heat 1 to 2 tablespoons of olive oil and add either paprika or, if you want spicy, crushed pepper flakes. Drizzle it on top of okras and yogurt.

_Sprinkle some fresh dill and serve. 

Bon appétit! 

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